minoru: the final details

after the pockets, i only had a few more details to add to my minoru. sorry to draw this out so long, but trust me. it’ll be worth it! so many people have talked about adding the various details i’ve added, so i really want to show all of them! also, i thought i had some in-progress pics of these things, but apparently i got too excited about the jacket at this point and totally forgot to take any! if you really need/want more detail on something specific, feel free to let me know.

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i added a facing to my zipper just to avoid potential clothing snags. that zip is hardcore and i’m sure it would chew up anything that came too close! if you’re looking to do the same, it’s very easy. i made the facing to go from the top of where the zipper zips up to, down to the end of the zipper tape. i made mine pretty narrow, but you could certainly make it wider if you wanted.

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i topstitched around the edge, serged the open edge, then topstitched a zig zag pattern to stabilize the facing. i didn’t want to add fusible and make it stiff, but i also didn’t want the facing to collapse upon itself since my fabric is pretty thin. to attach the facing, i lined the serged edge up with the edge of the zipper tape and stitched on top of my previous stitching where i attached the zipper to the shell (this just needs to be added before the shell and lining are attached). the only thing you need to be mindful of is keeping the top edge of the facing from getting caught in the top seam allowance.

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then that’s it! you simply proceed as normal. initially i attached the facing to the side that has the zipper pull, but i ripped it and then basted it to the other side. i found that it helps give you something to hang on to when zipping up the jacket.

the one feature that i changed from the original is the cuff. i do like the gathered cuff, but i had a straight cuff in my vision of this jacket, so that’s what i went with. initially i was going to do a placket and cuff with snaps to fasten, but everything was coming together so well that i got snap-shy and nixed all my snap plans. the thought of hammering stuff into my jacket suddenly made me nervous. anywho…

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i cut 1″ off the sleeve length, then made the cuff 1″ longer than drafted. i cut the inside and outside pieces of the cuff separate (one side interfaced) because it makes for a stronger edge, and cuff edges take a lot of wear. the sleeves are narrower than i anticipated, so it was a challenge to edge stitch and top stitch where the cuff attaches, but i was able to fold the edge of the cuff in so i could get the sewing machine in farther. snore… sorry if i’m totally boring you here.

last detail! one thing i really wanted was a drawstring waist. when i cut out my jacket pieces, i graded out at the waist on the front pieces (they had more shaping than the back) because i was pulling the drawstring out closer to the center front than the elastic, as drafted, would have gone. i left out the elastic entirely and stitched a casing to the outside of the jacket. initially i was going to put the casing on the inside and pull the drawstring out through some grommets, but i couldn’t find the right color to match my zip hardware and i was tired of finding supplies for this thing!

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i pinned, adjusted, re-pinned, adjusted again, re-pinned, and adjusted again… until i had everything laying properly and in the right place around my waist. once i was satisfied i edge stitched the casing on and threaded my cord through. oooohhhhh this is where i got totally excited, because the drawstring just pulled (haha) the whole look of the jacket together!

okay, i promise i wouldn’t keep stringing you along… the whole finished jacket will be up next! maybe today, maybe tomorrow… i have pics, just need time to write up my full review! CAN YOU TELL I’M EXCITED?!?!

and, before i forget… i’ve decided to take the plunge and sign up for me-made-may 2013. i’m going for 4 days a week of me-mades, which won’t be too challenging to achieve. i suspect the biggest challenge will be documenting! but now that the weather is warming up i’ve been pulling out some of my dresses, voile tops, shorts, etc. i’ll probably recap once a week-ish to keep it simple.

i, lisa g. of notes from a mad housewife, sign up as a participant of me-made-may ’13. i endeavour to wear me-mades at least 4 times a week for the duration of may 2013.

what about you?

—lisa g.

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8 thoughts on “minoru: the final details

  1. Shar says:

    I love detailed construction posts. I’m fairly new to sewing and need as much information as I can get! I hope one day to be able to change patterns up so successfully. I’m not doing MMM13 since I don’t have enough coordinated makes, but I hope to use the month to figure out what I need in my wardrobe. This post is like a cliff-hanger though – I kept thinking the reveal would be at the end – sneaky!

  2. poppykettle says:

    oh I can already tell this is going to be good. LOVE that facing idea (and its top stitching), and I’m still swooning over the pink zip and that lovely textured fabric. I shudder to think of all the thread that’s gone into this with all that top stitching! And I would literally commit illegal acts to get my hands on YKK zippers. They don’t sell them in Aus 😥

  3. Emily McDaid says:

    Hi Lisa – Your Minoru is amazing and the stuff you make is so beautiful. I found you through a Google search “back too tight Minoru fix”! And I saw your post about letting out the sleeves because your six 6 was too tight across back/biceps. Mine is doing exactly the same thing. I am using a polar fleece lining so I sort of expected the fit to be snug. Here’s my dilema. I don’t have a serger so I already pinked and clipped all the seam allowances on the back-to-sleeve seams. UGH. I am still not sure what to do. Any creative thoughts on this!? I haven’t put the lining together with the outside yet, so I need to fix it before I do this, or I fear the coat will rip. All the best and happy sewing, Emily

    • lisa g says:

      your best option may be just to add another strip of fabric between the back piece and the sleeve (i have seen details like that in RTW jackets, so maybe scope some out online). it would save your jacket and it wouldn’t be hard to make it look intentional. hope that helps!

      • Emily McDaid says:

        hi lisa – thanks so much for replying. sorry to hijack your blog asking about a fitting issue. i scoured lots of blogs and you were the only one mentioning the tight fit across the back. i actually found a way to give my jacket more ease. (I considered the way you mentioned but I wasn’t sure if I would get it to look right). I let out some of the gathering. It turned out I had gathered past the circles in the Sewaholic pattern, so there was space for me to flatten the top of the back and add more gathers to the sleeve. That added enough ease that I won’t worry about my jacket ripping anymore — although it is still a very tight fit and it’s not something I will be able to wear with a sweater underneath! (Not that I think I will need one, with the polar fleece!) Anyway, I look forward to more of your posts – I followed the blog today. Happy sewing! Emily

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