a pant-fitting revelation!

alright, more sewaholic love here! i think i can officially call the thurlow my TNT pant pattern. a year ago i made shorts using mccalls 5391 which was a decent pattern, but it lacked all the little profesh details i was craving and had to subsequently draft myself. that pair fit pretty good, but then the thurlow came out, i made it, and it fit so much better that i rarely wore my old mccall’s. so a month back i was digging through my fabric scraps and discovered that in fact i had almost an entire yard of that royal blue twill left. wooo! i wavered between using it for shorts or another moss mini, but decided to go ahead and make shorts and i promptly chucked the old mccall’s into the giveaway pile.

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grrr…. blurry pic… sorry! sorry!

since i’ve made this pattern twice before, i went ahead and chopped off the middle back extension pieces and constructed them without the wide CB SA. but one thing i wanted to adjust was the front rise. i lowered the waist seam about 3/8″ at the CF and that seemed to fix some wonkiness i was having in the fly area.

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i made up the back pockets like i did for my denim thurlows (single welt poppykettle style) with button closure. i also tapered the legs in slightly and shortened them from the cuffed version to a 3 1/2″ inseam.

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so what is my huge pant-fitting revelation you are no doubt wondering? here ya go… i’m not sure if this twill just has less give than the other fabrics i have used for this pattern, but this pair seemed a little tighter than my previous makes. i was getting some pretty pronounced wrinkles pointing toward the front crotch area. i spun around in front of the mirror a few times trying to figure out what exactly is causing the problem and it finally dawned on me that i needed more depth front to back. i’m no pant-fitting guru, but i think it’s a combination of le bootay, the mommy tummy, and a protruding thigh (hey now, i run several times a week… i have “strong thighs”).

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so, my behind was pulling from the er, behind… and since my tummy and thighs were pushing the opposite direction, i ended up with front crotch wrinkles from this little tug-of-war. i don’t even want to know what sort of perv google hits i’m gonna get after this post….

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some day i’ll buy more colors of serger thread…

fortunately i had some seam allowance to work with and a construction method (constructing the entire front, the entire back, then attaching them at the inseam then the outer seam) that allowed me some adjustment room. i unpicked the inseam then re-sewed it at 3/8″ tapering to nothing at the hem. this gave me an extra 1/2″ of depth in the crotch curve and greatly diminished the wrinkles! i still have some wrinkling as you can see, but it’s way better than before. wow, totally felt like i learned something about pants on that one. hopefully i can make another pair shortly (har, har, har…) and tweak this even further.

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and if the fabric for my top here looks familiar, it’s a sorbetto made from the same fabric as my eclair dress. i made this last summer, though it never made it to the blog. i swapped the center pleat for gathers and lengthened it. i wish it were longer, this hem length isn’t totally flattering on me, but it still gets a lot of wear because i just love that print so much. it reminds me of the way out of my budget liberty prints, but this i picked up for $2/yd last year on clearance. can’t beat that!

—lisa g.

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16 thoughts on “a pant-fitting revelation!

  1. poppykettle says:

    Fabulous in blue shorts form. I love em. Textured and brightly coloured fabric?? perfect combo!! Your little sketch made me chuckle 😛 It’s amazing how such a little change can make ALL the difference!

  2. dokucug says:

    Those shorts look fantastic! Thanks for explaining that change – another tip to file away in the memory banks!

    I love your little Sorbetto (and of course your Eclair). I bought the same fabric and made a blouse from a 1990s pattern that’s a little weird looking, but which I still love. I wish, wish, wish I had thought to buy extra of the fabric – I love it so much!

    • lisa g says:

      i think i had 4 yards of that fabric since the skirt of the eclair is h-u-g-e (it’s a partially gathered circle skirt!). glad my fitting tip made sense, for some reason pant pattern alterations are so much harder for me to visualize!

  3. Kate says:

    So I know this is an old post, but OMG, thank you for sharing this revelation. I’ve been tearing my hair out trying to diagnose my Thurlow crotch wrinkles, which look exactly like your diagram. I tried adding to the side seams, didn’t work. Tried using a smaller seam allowance for the part of the centre back seam that goes beneath your butt, didn’t work. I’m 99% sure after reading your post that I have the butt/thigh tug of war you describe. So glad to read your post and finally (hopefully) figure out the problem. Thanks for sharing!

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