jeans update | jalie 2908

i had hoped to have a finished pair of jeans at this point, but lacking time (and motivation) has me lagging quite a bit. they are so close to being done, but i think—scratch that—i know i need to remove the waistband and cut a new one. and the waistband just happens to be my absolute least favorite thing about pants making EVER. EVER!!! i don’t know why, i just hate waistbands. also, there stands a chance that they will be too small entirely and unwearable for anything other than standing. but before i go there, let’s talk fitting!

if you recall, i started with jalie 2908 and cut a straight size, only making a few adjustments at the waist as i sewed them up. i took a pinch out of the yoke at CB, and a little more at the side seams. for a more accurate adjustment, i took my yoke piece and darted out the excess in three places in order to spread out the adjustment. spoiler alert: this worked marvelously! the shape over my bum is fantastic! adding to that, it seems this great fitting yoke translated into not needing much waistband shaping. who knew?

photo 3

so onto the waistband… i sewed on a straight piece of twill to draft the waistband and darted out a couple places to get my curve. then i cut my actual waistband on grain (not with the stretch) and over-zealously interfaced it, resulting in so much stiffness i can barely fit them over my hips. so, that needs to be re-done on the cross grain, and interfaced in such a way to allow for a little bit of give. i really think swapping out a new waistband will give me a much better fit, and perhaps a better overall liking of the jeans.

photo 1

added width to the back piece at the outside seam

one thing about the original draft on the hip line was that my side seam pulled to the back. a hip measurement is only the beginning of the equation. most of my circumference is on my curvy backside, so the hip curve on the front pattern piece was far too extreme. i shaved off about 3/4″ from the front hip side seam and added it to the back side seam. the result is a side seam that is straight as an arrow down the length of my leg. LOVE that.

photo 2

this shows the outer side seam where i removed width. since the side seam was moved, i also had to alter the pocket placement.

but, my biggest complaint from my initial pants was the excess front crotch flappage i had happening. based on my limited knowledge of pants fitting, i knew the front curve would need to be flattened. this seems to have done the trick! it’s rather counter intuitive to add fabric where it appears too much fabric already exists, but the result is a closer or, i should say, more accurate fit around the front. i also flattened out the curve on the back crotch slightly (again, adding fabric) because my first iteration seemed to be giving me uni-butt. i read somewhere that a flatter curve would assist in shaping the backside. i also raised the inseam by 1/4″ on the front, and removed a 1/4″ wedge from the back inseam to help eliminate the under butt wrinkles.

another adjustment i made was to taper the leg in from the knee down. my cords were definitely too baggy, and i had a hard time stuffing them into boots without them pooling over the top. comparing them to my current skinny jeans led me to removing a full inch which may have been too much…

photo 4

my fabric may not have quite as much stretch as this pattern requires, which is leaving me with a very tight fit, and one that may not allow me to actually bend my knees. oops. in hindsight, i should have left myself much more SA to account for stretch variation, but alas i did not. the thought of these potentially not being wearable (and having my least favorite tasks ahead) have definitely stalled me out. after all, why waste my time with all that topstitching, etc if they’ll just end up in the donation pile? however—denim stretches. what is initially too small, sometimes ends up as just right, or even too big a wear or two down the road. for that reason, i will finish these… as soon as i get a little more motivated.

—lisa g.

25 thoughts on “jeans update | jalie 2908

  1. Annette says:

    I love my Jalie jeans. I over interfaced my waistband on my last pair and the denim had very little stretch. I had to loss a couple pounds to fit them. I have since lost more weight and they are the only jeans that fit. I have made this pattern at least six times.

  2. Chris says:

    I think these look amazing! I have a similar front crotch problem to yours, so I will do the exact same thing you describe here when I make jeans next. Thanks for the tips.
    I really hope yours will stretch out enough for you to wear them WITH bendy knees 🙂

  3. Sandra says:

    I am about to embark on my 3rd pair f Jalie Jeans and this time want to make skinnies. I am still trying to tweak for that effect fit and this time I will need to move the side seam at the hip forward. You are right, while they might feel tight now, after wearing them for a couple of hours I’m sure they will stretch and moulds to feel better – my jeans are always too tight when I out them on but doesn’t take too long for them to give a little.

  4. Gail says:

    Or you could just save them, and they’ll fit Anastasia in a couple of months 😉

    I think they look amazing. I really hope they work out for you once they’re finished.

    I just did my first (second, third and fourth) fitting on mine today, and it didn’t even occur to me to check if my side seam was straight! Not gonna change it up now though – I’m pooped!

    • lisa g says:

      hahaha! so true! i have some hope about the fit… they may just need some fancy maneuvering to get into them! gosh, the continuous fitting is sooo draining. can’t wait to see yours!

  5. Christy says:

    I’m really feeling like I should buy this pattern now. I’m interested to try your fix for the baggy front issues. I also have problems there and have often folded out the excess, but your straightening of the curve should pull it in further.

  6. Andrea says:

    Between this post and all the jean making action going on on IG I feel like a super slacker for not jumping on the jeans bandwagon.I think these are looking great, Lisa, and I appreciate your detailed info on fitting techniques. If I ever get off my lazy behind and decide to make pants, I’ll be reading your old posts on pant fitting for for sure – thanks!

  7. Shar says:

    I hope the jeans do stretch out since from what I’ve seen of them here and on IG, they look fabulous. Somewhere I’ve read that you do want them tight at first wear so they don’t bag out on you. Hmmm, I have to double check my side seams. My hips aren’t wide, but the same can’t be said for my backside and I think I need to figure out how to add more fabric back there on my next pair. My next steps are the zip and waistband. Are waistbands really that bad?

    • lisa g says:

      i got off my arse and finished them… they’re definitely too tight in the calves, but they may still be wearable! and no, waistbands aren’t really *that* bad, it’s just my least favorite part. probably because you think you’re about done, and then you have all those finishing details (beltloops, etc) that can take for-ev-er.

  8. Kelly says:

    I hear you on waistbands- the worst! When I was making the Jaime jeans I was amazed at how much wider the back was than the front, but the side seam ended up right where it should be. You should soldier on with these, all my jeans are super tight when I first put them on. They are looking awesome!

    • lisa g says:

      so it’s not just me on the waistband thing 🙂

      before cutting, i did a quick rub-off of my GAP jeans and noticed that all the shaping was on the back piece. it made me double check my corduroy/muslin pair and sure enough!

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