sewaholic cordova plans

i’m currently suffering from a terrible backlog of unblogged garments… this intolerable winter that will never end is really getting to me. i think there may be a slight warm up in the near future… my indoor pics always look so terrible, so hopefully if we have a warm day i can get a few things photographed!

anyways, if you’re with me on  instagram, you’ll know that i’ve been playing around with the sewaholic cordova lately. i love that pattern so much! i knew i would eventually make it as soon as i saw the design. yet… i’m only now getting on that. actually, i’m surprised that more cordova’s haven’t popped up. i’m going to take a gander that the lack of pockets are one of the main reasons. i mean, jackets need pockets. so, my cordova will have pockets.

photo 1

i’ve given the pockets a big long think. like a year’s worth of think (last year i was debating between making the cordova or the minoru—spoiler alert: i made the minoru) and finally inspiration struck as i was perusing style arc’s jacket patterns. check out the ziggi jacket. that pattern has zippered pockets just off the front princess seam. ah-ha! easy enough to add to the cordova! once i worked that detail out, inspiration was in full force.

i made up a muslin last week based on my measurements. seems as though this pattern runs on the boxy side, because i had to take it in about 3″ all around. i left the shoulder and hip alone, so the entire bust/waist was just too big. once i took those seams in i was super pleased with the fit!

photo 3

i want a two piece sleeve with exposed zipper sleeve vents, so i drafted one based on this resource. it came out… okay, but it still needs a ton of work. converting a one piece sleeve to a two piece sleeve is basically impossible. i don’t say that because it’s hard, but because they are just so different; the only thing they really have in common is the sleeve cap. the good news? the sleeve cap is the bulk of the drafting. so i’ll be trying again because i think i have a better idea of how to go about getting the sleeve i need.

while i was making all these changes, i decided the jacket would look super cute with turned back lapels. i lowered the stance and re-drew the front line to accommodate a nice wide lapel. i don’t mind the lack of collar (though it wouldn’t be all that hard to add, were you so inclined—just borrow one from a blazer pattern) but i think a lapel will help balance out the small bust/large hip thing happening with my figure. in fact, the collar-less look seems more popular now than it was when this pattern was released—perhaps sewaholic was just ahead of the times!

photo 2

onto my fabric… i have a heavy-weight brown cotton sateen (no stretch) that i picked up for cheap last summer. it was marked twill (from and i had planned to make some pants for hubby. however, upon receipt, it was decidedly not twill, and really too heavy for pants. since the fabric was inexpensive i initially thought i would make the jacket with out a muslin, but the more i thought about how useful a brown jacket would be, the more i thought i should do the job right the first time. to top it off, i remembered this ikat silk remnant i scored a while back ($6/yd) that is a bit shiny for every day wear, but would be perfect as a fun lining! all the pieces fell into place—design, fabric—so i plan to do this jacket justice. usually, i practice project monogamy (one sewing project at a time, please!) but for this, i’m allowing myself to work on smaller things in between so i don’t rush through. let’s face it: i don’t need this jacket right away since i’m still wearing my winter coat on a daily basis.

since the fabrics were already hanging around my sewing room (even the pattern was a christmas gift from my sister!), i get to splurge on fancy metal zips. and my zips are the only piece i haven’t yet figured out yet… contrast (red-ish/dk pink) or matching? if i only needed a front zip, per the pattern, contrast would be a no-brainer (yes!). but, since there will be five zippers, all that contrast might be overkill. at the moment i’m leaning toward matching for the front zips, and contrast for the sleeve vents. or would that be dumb? i have plenty of time to decide so—to my lovely readers who have made it to the end of my post—whaddaya think? all matching? all contrast? a mix of matching and contrast? do tell!

22 thoughts on “sewaholic cordova plans

  1. Jenny says:

    You have Burda magazines I think? All their jackets are pretty much 2 piece sleeves. You can use one of their sleeves and the same armhole from the Burda pattern traced onto the Cordova bodice and back. Just an idea, it’s what I’d do. I think all metallic zippers but it’s hard to say for sure from an online picture of the fabric. Isn’t project planning and problem solving so much fun?!

  2. Katie says:

    Such fun fabrics! I’d probably do a mix of matching and contrast. Pick one set of the zippers and make that a contrast and use matching on the others. Sleeve vents would work, but I also think that a contrasting front zip would be cool. Or contrasting zip pockets — oh, so many choices!

    (I have a crazy backlog of unblogged projects too. This winter can kiss my patootey).

    • lisa g says:

      i tend to agonize over this sort of detail… i think the pocket zips have to be matching, mostly because they’ll sit kinda high. i may end up ordering extra zippers just so i don’t have to decide yet!

  3. Kelly says:

    I always love your posts, I like all the details and hearing about your thought process for a project like this. My vote would be for contrast zips on the sleeve vents and pockets, and matching for the front zip…but either way it’s going to be awesome! I didn’t care for this pattern when it first came out but I am liking it more and more lately!

    • lisa g says:

      i do think the cordova is very current, with the whole biker jacket trend. anyways, i feel like jackets/coats are a process and deserve some preliminary discussion!

  4. teri dodds says:

    So there are zippers on the pockets, sleeves, and one in the front? I vote for the front and sleeves to match and contrasting on the pockets. But whatever you choose will be great, of course. Your muslin looks great– I can’t wait to see the finished product.

  5. carlalissa says:

    Your Cordova is looking pretty good. I wouldn’t go all the way in making 2 piece sleeves… I would use the placket (stencil) from the hawthorn and add a back for the zipper opening.And the zippers I will go matching.

  6. Sew Brunswick says:

    Looking good! I made the Cordova last year. It is a great jacket but I had some issues with the pattern. I still haven’t recovered…

  7. Shar says:

    I’m so interested to see how this comes out since the concept sounds great! I do think Tasia was ahead of the style curve since pleated sleeves and collarless looks are now really in. I agree with Jenny on the metallic zips – all matching. I can’t wait to see more pics!

  8. aleah says:

    I so admire your ability to plan and take things slow! (I should learn from you…) I made a Cordova in the fall in a ponte knit and it didn’t work at all for me, mainly because I didn’t muslin (duh) and it is just way too big. Plus I’m not a super pear and I have broadish shoulders, so the pleated sleeves just make me look like an 80s daytime talkshow host… I wish you better luck than I had!
    And my vote is for contrast zippers for the front and sleeves, but matching invisible zippers for the pockets.

    • lisa g says:

      i’ve always thought this pattern would be great in ponte, bummer it didn’t work out for you :/ you could always swap out the sleeve for a non-pleated… and working slow is definitely not my forte! i tend to plow full force into jacket/coats and end up totally burnt out and crazy by the end. if i can work on other stuff, hopefully i won’t make any rash decisions!

  9. Sally {thequirkypeach} says:

    The Cordova was actually one of the first indie patterns I ever purchased, and I still haven’t made it up – I like the idea of pockets! But the real kicker is finding the perfect fabric…. still working on that one 🙂

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