blazer | mccalls 6172

Life has been pretty hectic around these parts… unfortunately my sewing time, not to mention blogging time, has been virtually non-existent. So, so sad… I actually had decent Halloween costumes made up for the kiddos this year, but I never got around to getting good photos, so… oh well. They’re up on IG if you’re interested.

Instead of trying to post all the unblogged things, I’ll just jump ahead to what I’m working on now. Namely, a blazer! I’ve been wanting to make a blazer for a long time, so I jumped in when Gail and Shar teamed up on IG and were all like “Yeah! We’re sewing blazers! Wooooooo!” Andrea joined up as well, and we were all pretty gung-ho for a couple of days. So… that was the end of Septemeber, and we aimed to be done by the end of October-ish. Oh what, it’s mid-November now? Heh heh… oops.

I’m making view B, but will add patch pockets

I muslined the blazer (what seems like) ages ago but only this week did I transfer my alterations to my pattern and got cutting. I’m going for a relaxed fit, so I tried to keep my fitting low key. I stuck to my usual changes and did a 1″ SBA, a 1/4″ FSA (I didn’t mess with the sleeve cap, I figure it will be easier to just make some small adjustments when I set the sleeves), and took a small tuck out of the lapel. The only thing left troubling me was some restriction in arm movement. In the past I’ve shortened the depth of the armhole to gain more movement, but when i fiddled with the seam line on my muslin it left the back of the armhole looking kinda funny. Then by chance, I read Idle Fancy’s post with a ton of fitting links, including this one from A Fashionable Stitch. BINGO. That’s exactly what I needed. I don’t have broad shoulders, but I think perhaps my forward shoulder makes the standard armhole placement a little off? Or maybe it’s something else altogether… who knows!

The change was fairly straightforward. I simply straightened out the curve on the back of the jacket, and added a little extra in the same part on the sleeve. Things got a little dicey when I was altering the sleeve since this has a two-piece sleeve and the adjustment crossed between the two pattern pieces, but I think I’m in a good place. Basting will be my friend when I get to the sleeves.

I feel the need to apologize for the terribly lit iPhone photos… it’s a dark and dreary day!

The fabric I’m using is a very nice Pendelton wool that was gifted to me by one of my husband’s aunts. A few months ago she sent me a box of five cuts of wool (with receipt dated from 1992!) and the pink is just the right shade of bold without being obnoxious. Now that my fabric is cut, I need to get to fusing. The fabric has nice weight to it, so I’m using a weft fusible, reinforced with a little hair canvas fusible on the back collar, front lapel, and upper chest.

I’m pretty excited to get going now that my schedule has eased a bit and I have some momentum behind me. Who knows, I may finish it by the end of November… only a month late!

—lisa g.

P.S. If you’re really interested in seeing our slow progress, just search #bourbonandblazers on IG

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15 thoughts on “blazer | mccalls 6172

  1. Sandra (Sewist-Stitch) says:

    How timely, that arm movement thingy is troubling me at the moment – I’ve made a couple of jackets that could have done with more range of movement and I’m not sure whether it’s a broad back, forward shoulder, or just more fabric required around the back of the arm ???? It’s all just a bit overwhelming at times! I’m off to read those two blog links to see what I can gleen for my next jacket and before I embark on my blazer.

    • lisa g says:

      I’m not really sure what the cause is for me either, this doesn’t seem to have a handy three-letter acronym for me to look up… When I felt where the seam was, compared to where the back of my arm is, it was just totally not right! ugh… ARMHOLES.

  2. dokucug says:

    Look at you, gettin’ all fancy with a blog post! 😉

    I actually worked for 2 hours on my blazer yesterday, and all I did was hand baste those reinforcements on the upper back and side pieces, then add some fusible to the hem lines and mark everything. I didn’t even bother to put a pic on IG because it doesn’t look much different than all the other in-progress pictures I’ve posted! I’ve been steadily working on mine though – undercollar is constructed and shaped, as are the lapels. Fingers crossed – I might actually sew a seam today! Exciting!

    • lisa g says:

      You’re actually ahead of me, but I did spend all yesterday morning fusing my pieces and it’s taking forever! All I have left is fusing the hem on the back and sleeves, and my hair canvas. Did you have major issues with your press cloth sticking to your weft? Because… yikes! I have to peel it off every time. I’m using a muslin press cloth, maybe organza doesn’t stick as much? Tempted to switch to parchment paper!

      Hoping that writing up a blog post will keep me more accountable and on track… I just want to get sewing!

  3. Heather says:

    Thnaks for sharing what you’ve found Lisa! I can’t wait to see it when it’s finished. I have been super busy too, and having a hard time finding time for sewing and blogging, and I’m really missing it!
    PS: Your kids were super cute for Halloween!

  4. crab&bee says:

    I just used Sunni’s broad back adjustment for a shirt I’m making a friend! He tries it on tomorrow, so I’ll get to see how it worked. I’m also muslining a coat for myself right now and fit through the back is very much on my mind. (In the past, I’ve just made sure I can move my arms and focused on the front fit – not going to cut it anymore!)

    Good luck on your blazer. There’s nothing wrong with an involved project taken at a leisurely pace!

    • lisa g says:

      I have an easier time slowing down when I just accept that a project will take a while. The prep is really the bulk of the work!

      I keep reading in fitting books that you can’t fix the front until you fix the back. True words, but I have a hard time doing it in that order! I’m curious to know how Sunni’s adjustment works for your friend, armholes can be so hard to get right!

      • crab&bee says:

        Wow, that advice about fitting the back is really ringing true to me after my muslin epiphany a couple of nights ago. After much puzzling, I realized that even though I had enough room overall, the coat back was way too small and the front was way too big.

        My friend’s fit was improved by quite a bit, although it seems like I could have added more (even after adding 2″ total!) But adding more might have made the back arm scye nearly flat, and there is a bit of excess starting to show in the sleeves. I wanted to try David Coffin’s draping method but I was scared 🙂

  5. Shar says:

    Feel free to move at a glacial pace, haha! This sewalong was going along all stress free for me when I was in the lead, but now I really have to step it up since you’re actually sewing! I’m hoping to get fusing on Thursday and then lock myself in my sewing room for as much of the weekend as I can.

    • lisa g says:

      I have a hard time with a medium pace… for me it’s usually all or nothing! You’ll get there, generally my weekends are a wash on the sewing front since I (theoretically) have time to myself during the week. Can’t wait to see your progress though!

  6. elise says:

    Looks like this will be worth the effort..I always get overwhelmed when I see other bloggers working at lightening speed! Great job finding a solution to the arm hole!

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