Tiny Pocket Tank in silk

I’ve made several Tiny Pocket Tanks over the years and I wear them all the time in the spring, summer, and fall—definitely a wardrobe staple for me. I’ve always sewed it up in rayon challis, so when I spotted this great designer silk crepe de chine I decided to make a slightly more luxe version. I guess I was a little gun shy about cutting into this fabric since it sat in my stash for a few months. It’s not that I haven’t worked with floaty silks before, but you know how it is—must not ruin the pretty fabric!

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shorts are my favorite thurlows

I had a good think about how I was going to finish the neckline and armholes and in the end, decided to draft an all-in-one facing for a nice clean finish. I made sure to trim about 1/16″ off the facing at the neckline and armholes to ensure that it stays neatly tucked to the inside. It’s amazing what a difference it makes when I remember to do that! Between that and tacking the facing down at the side seams, the facing feels super secure with no risk of it flipping out.

I usually do that little trick where you sew the neckline and armholes completely by machine, but sometimes I feel like pulling the top out through the straps makes for unnecessary manhandling of the fabric. For this reason, I decided to go a different route, which includes hand sewing part of the straps to the facing. Hard to explain, but it felt more appropriate for this delicate fabric. Then I french seamed the side seams, and machine stitched the hem.

Since I’ve made this pattern so many times (though not much blog documentation—sorry!), I’ve been tweaking the fit as I go. I’m pretty close to perfect, however the top still seems to pull to the back. It’s almost as if the front straps are just too long, which may be partially due to some of the alterations I’ve made to the pattern. Grainline junkie though I am, this tank has been a real mind bender to fit properly! I’ve done a SBA, raised the bust dart, raised the neckline, and opened up a wedge into the neckline to adjust the angle of the strap at the shoulder seam. I’m sure I’ll continue to tweak this pattern, but in the meantime, all my iterations are perfectly wearable.

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I’m definitely loving this top in silk. Since it doesn’t require much yardage, I don’t mind splurging on nice fabric!

—lisa g.

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29 thoughts on “Tiny Pocket Tank in silk

    • lisa g says:

      It’s crazy how difficult it seems to be! Honestly, It would have been less work to draft one from scratch. Fortunately, even the imperfectly fitting tanks get loads of wear!

  1. teri dodds says:

    That fabric is so pretty! I haven’t made this tank, but I have the Wiksten tank and I’ve made about 4 muslins trying to get the perfect fit. I never did make a final one after all of those muslins this summer. Your lovely silk tank is making me think I should get back to it. (And maybe get fancy fabric to reward myself for all of the work I put into such a simple tank!)

    • lisa g says:

      It’s a little crazy that it’s so hard to get a good fit on such a simple piece, but I’ve heard (read) the same from lots of people on all the various woven tank patterns. But seriously, I wear my TPT’s all. the. time. It’s worth the trouble!

    • lisa g says:

      Do it! I seriously love it in silk. One of my local fabric shops has $10/yd silks, so I can really get by for pretty cheap! This fabric was $15/yd, so still a pretty good deal.

  2. Heather Gibson says:

    This looks gorgeous on you! I think the facing was definitely the way to go and it looks great. I have a few pieces of silk in my stash that I just can’t bring myself to cut into. I know they would be lovely to wear but I’m so worried about messing it up!

    • lisa g says:

      The biggest thing when cutting into silk is to make sure it’s on grain. I always tear the cut edges and square it up to the edge of my table. Crepe de chine is really no more difficult to work with than rayon challis, in my opinion. Just go for it one of these days!

    • lisa g says:

      I usually do a forward shoulder adjustment, but I guess I never did for this top. The entire shoulder seam is at least a half inch farther back than it should be… Will definitely make some adjustments for next time. Thank you!

  3. Kayla Green says:

    I love tank tops but never done anything with silk! I am just afraid I will ruin the fabric! I agree that tank tops are basic wardrobe pieces that you can easily layer with other pieces of clothing.

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