chartreuse is the new black

here is my latest incarnation of the sewaholic thurlow shorts. can you tell that i love this pattern? this is the fourth time i’ve used it and, if my MMM’13 was any indication, you can see that i wear my thurlows a lot.

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no, i didn’t make the blouse. it’s my favorite RTW top though!

i figured since this was my fourth, it was time to change it up a bit. i made them cuffed as the pattern intended, and i changed the front pocket situation. i have no problem with the pockets as drafted, but i really do prefer the slash pockets even though they are supposedly unflattering on figures such as my own. forget about whether or not they draw attention to my hips, they’re just better for hand stashing. and hand stashing usually trumps figure flattering.

sorry hips.

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the actual color is slightly more muted than this picture suggests.

can we just talk about this color for a minute? when i went fabric shopping i was looking for a bright pink twill i had seen a couple months ago. i keep seeing bright colored pants and shorts every time i turn around and i definitely wanted in on this trend. alas, the pink was nowhere to be seen. determined to have some twill i grabbed this chartreuse/mustard color. the lady at the cutting table asked what i was going to do with it, and the look on her face told me she didn’t know what to make of this color or why i wanted to wear it. it definitely walks the fabulous? or hideous? line, but i think it’s great. crazy enough, it seems that i have several tops already in my closet that go with it, as if it were a neutral color. who knew that chartreuse was the missing link in my wardrobe?!

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well there isn’t much more to say about the thurlow that i haven’t already said (here, here, and here), except that i won’t be retiring this pattern any time soon. on a side note, i am proud to say that i hit a notable milestone regarding pants: i did the fly without consulting any directions. did you catch that? NO DIRECTIONS WERE CONSULTED. a pant fly is now knowledge in my head. and boy does that feel good. auto-pilot sewing is. the. best.

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if you haven’t made this pattern yet… what are you waiting for?!

—lisa g.

a pant-fitting revelation!

alright, more sewaholic love here! i think i can officially call the thurlow my TNT pant pattern. a year ago i made shorts using mccalls 5391 which was a decent pattern, but it lacked all the little profesh details i was craving and had to subsequently draft myself. that pair fit pretty good, but then the thurlow came out, i made it, and it fit so much better that i rarely wore my old mccall’s. so a month back i was digging through my fabric scraps and discovered that in fact i had almost an entire yard of that royal blue twill left. wooo! i wavered between using it for shorts or another moss mini, but decided to go ahead and make shorts and i promptly chucked the old mccall’s into the giveaway pile.

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grrr…. blurry pic… sorry! sorry!

since i’ve made this pattern twice before, i went ahead and chopped off the middle back extension pieces and constructed them without the wide CB SA. but one thing i wanted to adjust was the front rise. i lowered the waist seam about 3/8″ at the CF and that seemed to fix some wonkiness i was having in the fly area.

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i made up the back pockets like i did for my denim thurlows (single welt poppykettle style) with button closure. i also tapered the legs in slightly and shortened them from the cuffed version to a 3 1/2″ inseam.

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so what is my huge pant-fitting revelation you are no doubt wondering? here ya go… i’m not sure if this twill just has less give than the other fabrics i have used for this pattern, but this pair seemed a little tighter than my previous makes. i was getting some pretty pronounced wrinkles pointing toward the front crotch area. i spun around in front of the mirror a few times trying to figure out what exactly is causing the problem and it finally dawned on me that i needed more depth front to back. i’m no pant-fitting guru, but i think it’s a combination of le bootay, the mommy tummy, and a protruding thigh (hey now, i run several times a week… i have “strong thighs”).

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so, my behind was pulling from the er, behind… and since my tummy and thighs were pushing the opposite direction, i ended up with front crotch wrinkles from this little tug-of-war. i don’t even want to know what sort of perv google hits i’m gonna get after this post….

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some day i’ll buy more colors of serger thread…

fortunately i had some seam allowance to work with and a construction method (constructing the entire front, the entire back, then attaching them at the inseam then the outer seam) that allowed me some adjustment room. i unpicked the inseam then re-sewed it at 3/8″ tapering to nothing at the hem. this gave me an extra 1/2″ of depth in the crotch curve and greatly diminished the wrinkles! i still have some wrinkling as you can see, but it’s way better than before. wow, totally felt like i learned something about pants on that one. hopefully i can make another pair shortly (har, har, har…) and tweak this even further.

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and if the fabric for my top here looks familiar, it’s a sorbetto made from the same fabric as my eclair dress. i made this last summer, though it never made it to the blog. i swapped the center pleat for gathers and lengthened it. i wish it were longer, this hem length isn’t totally flattering on me, but it still gets a lot of wear because i just love that print so much. it reminds me of the way out of my budget liberty prints, but this i picked up for $2/yd last year on clearance. can’t beat that!

—lisa g.

minoru: finished!

without further ado… here is my beautiful minoru jacket from sewaholic patterns.

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i am pleased as punch with how my jacket turned out! most of the credit of course goes to the wonderful pattern. usually i like how my garments turn out in spite of the pattern, not because of the pattern. ya know? what can i say, i’m hard to please.

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i needed a spring weight jacket and i was inspired by the anorak-style jackets i see a lot. curiosity finally got the better of me and i just looked up anorak on wikipedia. so the anorak jacket has clearly evolved from it’s original form, and really the drawstring waist is the only thing that mine (or other current models) have in connection to the original. side note: anorak is also slang for someone who has an obsessive niche interest, often not acknowledged or understood by the general public… and here i thought we were discussing my jacket, not the wearer… haha!

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so let’s start at the beginning… i used a crushed light to medium weight rayon that has a slight sheen. the fabric color (it has a brown undertone) is super hard to capture acurately, but these pics do a pretty good job because i managed just the right lighting. i picked out a dusty rose bemberg lining and decided on contrast zips that (perfectly!!) match my lining to give the jacket a little color to break up the taupe(?) color. p.s. i loooooove my lining, it makes my jacket incredibly comfy. seriously, i could live in this thing!

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i cut the hood as a 3-pc with an drawstring (made from self-bias, also used for zipper pulls), added a vertical upper left zippered welt pocket, added patch with flap pockets, a zip facing, changed up the cuffs and made a waist drawstring casing. whew! all the information about these changes are in my past posts (linked at the bottom). despite all these changes/additions, i managed to sew it up in under a week’s time, and that’s with taking two days to ponder the pockets! it just goes to show how great this pattern really is. tasia has considered every detail, and the method of construction gives such a professional finish, i’m still a little amazed that i made it myself. seriously, if you haven’t ventured into outerwear/jackets this is a great place to start.

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one aspect of the jacket i didn’t want to think about too much was the cost. the cost of sewing is a much-discussed topic ’round the blogs, and i really do my best to chose my fabrics and notions and patterns carefully to keep my costs less than their RTW counterpart. this jacket (while it cost more than i anticipated) is something of an exception due to the frequency with which it’ll be used. much like my winter coat, this is my go-to jacket. i don’t have a closet full of previous years’ models. so here’s the cost breakdown (including shipping costs for the pattern and zippers):

  • pattern: $23.48
  • fabric: $18.98
  • lining: $17.47
  • interfacing: $2.99
  • notions: $28 ($19 of this is from my special ordered zippers, the rest is thread, cording, etc)

this brings my total cost to around $90 USD. so, not terrible, though i was hoping to keep it under $75. the RTW jackets i was looking at were in the $75-$150 range, so i still feel pretty good about that. in fact, the bulk of the cost was the pattern and the zips. arguably, these are the two things that really made my jacket what it is! i had many moments of doubt during the construction. at one point, the fabric began to remind me of one of those capes they put around you at the hair salon and i was worried it would end up looking like a shiny blob with a pretty zipper. fortunately, that didn’t happen and i love the outcome.

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i’m not sure what else to say about this jacket, so i’ll leave you with links to my previous posts.

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later daahhhlings…

—lisa g.

minoru: the final details

after the pockets, i only had a few more details to add to my minoru. sorry to draw this out so long, but trust me. it’ll be worth it! so many people have talked about adding the various details i’ve added, so i really want to show all of them! also, i thought i had some in-progress pics of these things, but apparently i got too excited about the jacket at this point and totally forgot to take any! if you really need/want more detail on something specific, feel free to let me know.

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i added a facing to my zipper just to avoid potential clothing snags. that zip is hardcore and i’m sure it would chew up anything that came too close! if you’re looking to do the same, it’s very easy. i made the facing to go from the top of where the zipper zips up to, down to the end of the zipper tape. i made mine pretty narrow, but you could certainly make it wider if you wanted.

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i topstitched around the edge, serged the open edge, then topstitched a zig zag pattern to stabilize the facing. i didn’t want to add fusible and make it stiff, but i also didn’t want the facing to collapse upon itself since my fabric is pretty thin. to attach the facing, i lined the serged edge up with the edge of the zipper tape and stitched on top of my previous stitching where i attached the zipper to the shell (this just needs to be added before the shell and lining are attached). the only thing you need to be mindful of is keeping the top edge of the facing from getting caught in the top seam allowance.

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then that’s it! you simply proceed as normal. initially i attached the facing to the side that has the zipper pull, but i ripped it and then basted it to the other side. i found that it helps give you something to hang on to when zipping up the jacket.

the one feature that i changed from the original is the cuff. i do like the gathered cuff, but i had a straight cuff in my vision of this jacket, so that’s what i went with. initially i was going to do a placket and cuff with snaps to fasten, but everything was coming together so well that i got snap-shy and nixed all my snap plans. the thought of hammering stuff into my jacket suddenly made me nervous. anywho…

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i cut 1″ off the sleeve length, then made the cuff 1″ longer than drafted. i cut the inside and outside pieces of the cuff separate (one side interfaced) because it makes for a stronger edge, and cuff edges take a lot of wear. the sleeves are narrower than i anticipated, so it was a challenge to edge stitch and top stitch where the cuff attaches, but i was able to fold the edge of the cuff in so i could get the sewing machine in farther. snore… sorry if i’m totally boring you here.

last detail! one thing i really wanted was a drawstring waist. when i cut out my jacket pieces, i graded out at the waist on the front pieces (they had more shaping than the back) because i was pulling the drawstring out closer to the center front than the elastic, as drafted, would have gone. i left out the elastic entirely and stitched a casing to the outside of the jacket. initially i was going to put the casing on the inside and pull the drawstring out through some grommets, but i couldn’t find the right color to match my zip hardware and i was tired of finding supplies for this thing!

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i pinned, adjusted, re-pinned, adjusted again, re-pinned, and adjusted again… until i had everything laying properly and in the right place around my waist. once i was satisfied i edge stitched the casing on and threaded my cord through. oooohhhhh this is where i got totally excited, because the drawstring just pulled (haha) the whole look of the jacket together!

okay, i promise i wouldn’t keep stringing you along… the whole finished jacket will be up next! maybe today, maybe tomorrow… i have pics, just need time to write up my full review! CAN YOU TELL I’M EXCITED?!?!

and, before i forget… i’ve decided to take the plunge and sign up for me-made-may 2013. i’m going for 4 days a week of me-mades, which won’t be too challenging to achieve. i suspect the biggest challenge will be documenting! but now that the weather is warming up i’ve been pulling out some of my dresses, voile tops, shorts, etc. i’ll probably recap once a week-ish to keep it simple.

i, lisa g. of notes from a mad housewife, sign up as a participant of me-made-may ’13. i endeavour to wear me-mades at least 4 times a week for the duration of may 2013.

what about you?

—lisa g.

minoru: the pockets

whoah. pockets. okay, so the only glaring omission for the minoru is it’s lack of outside pockets.   while i try not to constantly have my hands stashed, i always have a sniffly nose and tissues must always be at the ready. always. and if you think i’m bad (which you can’t since 99.999999% of you have never met me IRL) you should meet my adorable teeny tiny five year old daughter isabella. it’s quite comical the amount of snot she can blow out her schnoz and the decibel level she attains while doing so (allergies). so pockets are a must.

while i was pondering the main pockets, i added a vertical zip pocket to the upper left front. putting the zip in was easy peasy (i’ve done enough welt or welt-type pockets to be totally confident slicing into my fabric).

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adding the pocket bag proved a little more difficult. let’s just say i exchanged a few words with my little pocket in the process. there was a point when i knew i would have a pocket zip opening, i just didn’t know if it would be a functioning pocket. eventually i stitched in all the right places and the torturous creation is in no way evident from the outside.

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it’s amazing what tribulation a cleanly serged edge can hide. to save my pocket from pulling on the front in any way, i extended the pocket bag all the way up to the neck seam and hand sewed it in place. ideally it would have been secured in that seam when attaching the collar, but at that point of construction i hadn’t worked out all the pocket deets.

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i hemmed and hawed over exactly what size/shape/location for the main pockets and experimented with a few different sizes. i wanted a patch pocket of some variety, but when i pinned on a regular ol’ rectangular patch pocket it just didn’t look right and it was uncomfortable for hand stashing to boot. i looked around at some jackets for inspiration and found that most patch pockets for this type of jacket also had a sneaky little vertical welt pocket on top of the patch pocket—a 2-in-1 pocket (like this jacket). for all of two minutes i considered copying that design. eventually i came upon a brilliant solution to simply slant the top of the pocket. instead of making a rectangular pocket, i lowered the outer edge by (i think) 1 1/2″. as soon as i did that i knew i hit upon the right idea. from there i tweaked the proportions and placement and drafted a pocket. with the slanted design i knew would be putting the upper edge at risk of “growing” (being on the bias) so i made sure to reinforce the upper edge in a couple different ways.

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first, i made the outside and lining separate pieces, sewn together at the top (as opposed to a folded over and stitched top). i also added an interfaced pocket facing cut on the straight grain and applied to the top edge of the pocket lining. along with some under stitching and top stitching, that pocket edge will no way no how lose it’s shape. then i added a pocket flap to keep all my pocket contents secure. now, accomplishing all this with the slanted top made for some careful measuring and pattern piece making; everything had to line up perfectly. but once i had figured out the direction i wanted to go it was fairly simple to put together, and i’m very pleased with the outcome. in all seriousness, i pondered the pockets for almost two whole days and i’m glad i did, because the resulting pockets are near perfection.

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now, the astute among you will notice that my vertical zip doesn’t match my main and hood zip. when i ordered my jacket zips i hadn’t officially determined whether or not i would do this pocket, so i didn’t look very hard for a matching zip. i did look, but i couldn’t get the right hardware/tape color combo without placing a large custom order, so i skipped it. i figured, if i really wanted the pocket, i could pick up a zip that matched my shell fabric since i wasn’t looking to draw a lot of attention to this pocket. i also considered doing a welt over the zipper to hide it’s color, but nixed that idea since all the other zips were exposed.

i’m glad i went the direction i did and made the zippered pocket (though my #1 choice would have been a pink zip to match the others), but what about you? would this non-matching zipper bother you? an earlier me would certainly not have tolerated it, but do you look at these pics and think: “oh-em-gee… this would have been a perfect jacket had she just matched the darn zipper or left that eyesore out entirely!”? don’t worry, you won’t hurt my feelings because p.s. the jacket is currently finished. aaaaaannnnd is freakin’ awesome.

can’t. wait. to. show. you.

—lisa g.

minoru: under the hood

i was able to get in a nice chunk of sewing time in on monday so i have mostly completed the shell of my minoru. up until this point, i have followed the directions verbatim. to figure out the size and placement of my various pocket additions i really need to see what my jacket space actually is. it’s one thing to draw pockets out on the pattern pieces; it’s another thing entirely to see them in relation to the jacket as a whole.

i measure a size 6 in sewaholic so that’s what i’m making up. everything seems to fit great except for the shoulders. it’s more snug across my back and bicep area than i anticipated. i think i’ll let out the raglan seam at the back just a touch and hope that fixes things. it’s not so tight that i couldn’t live with it, and in reality would only be noticeable when zipped up, but i don’t want my investment of time and resources to leave me with the nagging i should have fixed that when i had the chance… especially since it won’t take that much time.

so that’s my only minor sizing irk at this point. i kept reading people’s reviews about how fast this jacket comes together but i guess i didn’t really believe it. even though it took me almost two hours to make my stupid collar/zip thingie, the rest (except for the hood, which i did sunday) was constructed in an afternoon.

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i thought i’d try to give details about my changes and additions. so i’ll start with the hood. many people have stated that they wished the hood was a 3-pc for better shaping. i wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make this little change, but i reasoned it out and it turned out perfect. here’s what i did…

determine how wide you want the middle piece to be. you can measure an existing hood in your life, or do what i did: take a measuring tape, stand in front of a mirror, and eyeball it. i went with 4″. then take your hood piece and draw in the seam allowance. now, take HALF the width you want your center hood piece to be and mark that out all along the top seam. re-add your SA, then cut away the excess.

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you will need to measure the seam line to determine how long to make the center piece. take that measurement and draw a corresponding rectangle that long and as wide as you previously measured, plus SA’s on either side (for my 4″ wide piece i added two 5/8″ SA’s making my piece 5.25″ wide). if you want to add some match points, measure around on the seam line of the hood and make incremental marks (i did them every 5″) then make corresponding marks on your center hood piece.

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a word of advice when sewing the rounded hood to the straight middle piece: remember that your seam lines are the same length at the seam line. meaning the edge of the seam allowance of the curvy piece will be longer than the edge of the straight piece. it took me a long time when i first got serious about sewing to really figure this out, so if you struggle with this sort of seam, you’re not alone! the edge of the curved piece will be rippled at the edge of the seam allowance because it is longer. i find it easiest to pin these pieces together while holding it and shaping it as i pin. generally i’m a light pin-er, but not when it comes to this type of curve.

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since i didn’t take pics while actually sewing this together, this obviously is my paper pattern.

then, when you go to sew this, have the straight piece down, and the curved piece on top. keep turning and adjusting your work so that you sew in the straight line of the rectangle piece instead of trying to sew in the curved line of the outside piece. that will probably only make sense when you’re sitting at the machine and actually sewing.

i decided to flat fell my hood seams for a nice profesh finish. i trimmed the SA of the middle piece then pressed the SA of the outer piece in half, folded it over and around the trimmed SA and stitched it down. now i do have a felling foot, but in all honesty i find it almost as easy to do by hand. plus, my SA here is wider than my foot technically accommodates for. then before hemming the outer edge of the hood, i added little buttonhole openings to allow for a drawstring, which i’ll make from self-bias tape later. if you do this, just make sure that the openings are far enough up to be above the zipper opening in the collar, an easily overlooked detail.

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like i said, i have most of the shell done except for all the pockets i’m adding. even though up to this point things have proceeded at a nice clip, i have to figure out and cut my extra pieces as i go, which slows me down considerably. i have the upper chest pocket done and i’m figuring out the main pockets. not 100% what direction i’ll be going there… i’ll be back once i have it all worked out!

—lisa g.

spring sewing plans

now that this madness is over i feel like we can all move on and focus on helping the many victims. it was pretty surreal seeing the news feeds, especially of the thursday through friday manhunt. glad that part, at last, is over. huge props to the law enforcement for doing their job so well. —lisa g.

spring finally decided to grace us with it’s presence, so i’m finally feeling inspired to get some seasonally-appropriate wear made! i started a skirt (and technically finished it) but i don’t like how the waist band is working out, so that’s on the back burner. i also have a pair of thurlow shorts finished and awaiting a photo-op, so today i’m talking about a lightweight jacket. it felt so good to grab the winter coat i made last fall whenever i walked out the door that i really feel it is worth my time to make a (moderately involved) jacket for spring.

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i’ve been looking online at anorak-style jackets and i really love all the details: drawstring waists, patch pockets, pull-out hoods, etc. the minoru is a perfect starting point to get the look i want without having to do any major pattern changes. but, i wouldn’t be me if i didn’t change anything, so here goes…

  • pockets! i want big deep patch pockets with flaps.
  • upper pockets…? the jury’s still out on that one. i’ve considered more patch pockets or even vertical welt pockets with a hidden zip, but that seems like a lot of extra work for pockets that would almost never actually be used.
  • drawstring waist: instead of the wide elastic called for, i will run some 1/4″ elastic and add drawstring cording and bring it out through grommets close to the CF zipper plackets.
  • i want to add a facing behind the zip to avoid clothing snags
  • cuffs: instead of the elastic cuffs, i plan to do a regular cuff and placket (probably bound, as opposed to tower) and add the little roll up your sleeve and button it thingies.
  • hood: i will do a 3-pc hood instead of the 2-pc. also, i want to add a drawstring.
  • lastly, i plan to drop the hem slightly in the back. not dramatically, not for any functional reason, but just cuz.

i’ve done my research, i know all the pattern quirks, i’ve thought this out extensively (it has literally kept me up at night), and i’m 99% sure i have all the deets worked out.

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i’m using the lighter colored side. probably… i keep changing my mind…

time to talk fabric! i agonized over fabric choices for weeks on end until i could buy my supplies (recent major car repairs set us back a few pennies…). initially i wanted a cotton nylon blend for water-repellent purposes, then i thought to just go with a twill, then i thought maybe a lightweight canvas would be nice… too many options, yet i couldn’t seem to find exactly what i wanted. when i finally went fabric shopping at an actual store (as opposed to online searching) i ended up picking fabric completely different than i had in mind. completely different. i found a medium weight rayon that may have a name, but i have no idea what that might be (feel free to chime in if you do). it has a subtle shine and one side is darker than the other. it has some texture and a wrinkly nature and just feels so luxe and awesome! i totally love it. i picked out a dusty rose colored bemberg lining, and pink zips with metal teeth.

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words cannot express how happy i was to pick out and order a zip online and have it be an exact match to my lining.

can’t wait to get moving on this jacket… it shall be awesome.

—lisa g.

thurlow in denim

for months i’ve wanted to make some thurlow pants, and i finally got around to it! i went with a denim because i found some for a great price. basically (not including the pattern) these pants cost me less than $10. that’s a definite win in my book!


i measure a straight size 6, but when i used this pattern before i went with a size 4. there is still plenty of room for these to be comfortable, in fact i’ve already spent two full days wearing them. i love this type of pant because i can look nice without being dressed up.

it does feel weird cropping out my head
so i can properly show you my bum and
then posting it on the internet… but whatevs.


any changes i made are subtle. i changed the order of construction slightly, using the method i learned from the jalie jeans pattern. it allows you to construct the fly without having the back of the pants attached yet. once the fly is constructed, and the back pieces are sewn together, you sew front to back by sewing the entire inseam and then the side seams. i really like this for a few reasons. first, you can topstitch the crotch flat, you can topstitch the inseam, and you can adjust the legs as needed to get the fit you want.


my denim is a little heavy and bulky so i needed my seam allowances to be controlled as much as possible, hence all the topstitching. i was concerned that my topstitching would detract from the look, but you can barely see it because my fabric is so dark. fine by me!

i decided to go with a single inset welt for the back pockets. i felt the double welts were a little oversized and perhaps a touch low. i made the single welt where the top of the double welt would be, if that makes any sense. i used poppykettle’s fab tutorial to make my pockets and they turned out perfect. i also added a button hole just as extra insurance against unsightly back pocket gaping.


as i mentioned in my last post, i adjusted the fly extension piece so that my waistband would line up correctly and everything would be in it’s proper place. i ended up trimming off the extra seam allowance in the back. as i said before, my denim is fairly heavy and it was just creating unnecessary bulk. i fit a straight size 4 so i think in the future i’ll just trim the excess out to begin with.

hammered in a shank button. p.s. the dritz jeans buttons suck
big time. gonna have to find a different brand, these are
nearly impossible to get in!


i added 1″ in length and they are just a touch long for wearing flats, but i figure they’ll shrink up as they get washed. i can always adjust the length later as needed.

as i’ve said before, this is a GREAT pattern. other than tweaking maybe the front crotch depth, i really have a good fit. hopefully i can get around to making another pair (or two or three or ten) because i could really use more pants!


okay, if you don’t hear from me for a while it’s because i’ve been buried in snow. we have 18-30″ (45-76 cm for you metric types) of the stuff coming our way tomorrow through saturday. blizzard! so, i’m off to stock the pantry…

—lisa g.

it’s not just you

guys, i’ve done a lot of un-selfish sewing lately, so it was time to sneak in a piece for myself before starting another dress shirt. i decided to make some denim thurlows. yeah, i blatantly copied not only the online sewing peeps who have made denim trousers, but even my own little sister who made a pair recently, sent me pics and generally rubbed it in my face that she made super awesome pants. really, they were so cute i just couldn’t help myself anymore. i had to have my own. there’s a fabric store nearby called sewfisticated (don’t you just adore the name?) and every time i go there they have loads of bargains. they always have a table full of denim for $2.50/yd, and on my last visit i just couldn’t pass it up. the denim they had was a little heavier than i would have preferred, but i think it still works just fine.

now, i made thurlow shorts way back when and when i did the fly, i noticed the fly extension seemed to not quite be in the right place. but i went along, leaving it as it was. then when it came time to put the waistband on, the waistband came up short. i assumed i just messed up somewhere. i made a quick fix, and all was good.

so this time around, i carefully followed the directions, and lo and behold—same problem. ah-ha! it wasn’t me. it was gasp a flaw in the pattern! this time, i searched reviews because surely i wasn’t the only one who came across this problem. nothing. then i asked my sister and yes! she too had the same thing happen to her. i have seen whisperings of waistbands coming up short, so i’m here to say: it’s not just you! this time around, i decided to rip out all the stitching, take out the zip and start over. p.s. one of those little razor blades makes super fast work of stitch unpicking. a regular seam ripper would have taken me an hour; razor blade, less than two minutes. believe me, re-doing the zip was much less work than it sounds.


i know we all have a proclaimed love affair with sewaholic patterns, but for the sake of anyone making this pattern and having fly/waistband issues, i will stand here and be the one to let you know that there is indeed a teeny tiny mistake in either the fly extention piece or the directions. fortunately, it is a super easy fix.

if you need what you are sewing to look exactly like the directions, trim 5/8″ off the width of the fly extension when you go to finish the long edge (or trim it from the pattern piece to begin with). after, you can continue following the directions and illustrations as they are.

please note that i reversed my fly to the
standard zip up with the right hand layout


if you are confident enough to have yours look slightly different, sew the zip at 5/8″ in from the facing edge instead of lined up with it. then when you sew the zip and fly extension to the pant, line up the edge of the zip tape (instead of the edge of the facing) with the edge of the pant. i kind of like the facing to extend beyond the edge of the zip tape to minimize bulk, so that’s what i did.

all in all, it’s not a big deal. i do wish sewaholic would put a little note amending the pattern either as an insert or on the site somewhere, especially since we’re talking about the fly. many people are using this pattern as their first try at pants and we’re all assuming that we have erred somewhere. i love sewaholic and tasia is an absolute dear who works very hard and delivers an outstanding product, but just a teeny tiny little amendment would be fab.

again, my zip is reversed from how the pattern is written
that’s just how i roll


that’s my PSA for the day. carry on.


—lisa g.