True Bias | Lodo Dress with sleeves

You know how it’s annoying when a blogger disappears and never gives a proper sign off or at least a Hey I’m a bit busy for this space I probably won’t be posting anymore… ? *Cough, cough* Anyway… Just popping in to say that yeah, new posts probably won’t be happening around these parts. I have and will continue to be on IG (well, until the algorithms drive me away… ugh) but I’ve kinda moved on from my own blogging, especially when I have to choose between sewing, and writing about sewing. Sewing always wins. I started working as a substitute teacher last year so between that and the regular after school runaround and keeping up with four kids, I just don’t have the time/interest to keep up with this space. I don’t plan on deleting the blog (though tbh, the blog name feels a little cringe-worthy to me now) so no worries if you have something bookmarked. I still get a lot of hits on certain posts, so those will all remain. And who knows, I may pop back in from time to time when I have something I just must share. Like today!

Recently I was struck with the idea of making the True Bias Lodo Dress with sleeves thinking it would be super comfy to wear this fall and basically I had to have it like now. You know how it goes. I really liked this pattern when it came out, but  didn’t think it would work for my pear shape. My measurements put me at like a 4 at the bust, and a 10/12 at the hip. So… yeah.  I ended up blending from a 6 at the bust to a 10 at the hip. Then I added a little extra on the side seams on the back only at the hip, because that’s where I need the extra width. I think this worked out really well to accommodate my shape while retaining the cocoon shape of the pattern.

I also did a square shoulder adjustment. Because I’m more petite from shoulder to waist, I dropped the shoulder seam at CF/CB, rather than raise the seam line at the shoulder. I marked where my shoulder hits, cut out the neckline, cut along the shoulder seam line, then dropped the neckline down by 1/4″ and pivoted the shoulder seam down to match (note that the shoulder seam actually gets shortened slightly because the angle is less steep). On the front, I made my cut partway down the V-neck, then blended the line. Effectively this raised the V by 1/4″.  Lastly, I lengthened the hem by 1″.

For the added sleeves, I started out by tracing the sleeve from the Grainline Hemlock Tee. I wanted a deeper armhole, so I widened the sleeve cap and also curved it a little so I didn’t end up with too much extra fabric under the arm. Just to be really confusing, the Hemlock Tee has a 1/4″ SA, which I ignored since I am using thicker fabric than that tee is designed for, and added a 3/8″ SA all around. After basting everything together and trying it on, I decided to narrow the sleeve back down to the original width below the elbow. My sleeves here are shorter than the Hemlock sleeves because I ran out of fabric. When I bought my fabric there was just shy of 1.5 yds available so I couldn’t fit the full sleeve length on my yardage!

I would love to make another one of these, and if I do I would probably extend the shoulder line by about 1″ and curve the seam line under the arm to make it easier to sew up the side seams. Otherwise, I’m really happy with how this came out! My fabric is a cotton/lycra ponte, so it has good body and nice stretch. I was worried about it bagging out during the day, but that didn’t happen. In the store, the fabric looked decidedly olive-colored, but in regular light it’s olive with heavy brown undertones. Kinda bummed about that, but it won’t stop me from wearing it.

Thanks to everyone who has stopped by and read my posts over the years… it’s been fun 🙂

lisa g.

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Southport Dress | True Bias

The Southport Dress by True Bias was a pattern I snatched up right away. It’s just so perfect for summer throw it on and look like I tried wear. Everyone seems to be making this dress in rayon, but I’ve been dying for a linen dress, so I went that route. Plus, I think it’s more helpful to fit a pattern using fabric with less drape. My fabric is another one of those nice linen/rayon blends from Joanns (this one, while it’s still available).

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I modified the bodice slightly to skip the button front and to eliminate the dart. This pattern is drafted for C cup (in sewing terms) and my measurements put me in an A. My upper bust is 33″, and full is 34″. Normally, I would take my upper bust measurement and add 3″ to select which size to make (for a C cup draft), then remove 2″ in a SBA. However, I went with a size 6 bodice (for a 35″ bust) and took out 1/2″ (1″ total), then went ahead and closed out the dart completely. I was left with a teeny tiny 1/2″ dart, so really what was the point? As it happens, closing out the dart added exactly the length I needed back into the waist seam.

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After trying the dress on, the bodice was just huge on me. I went back in and pinched out 1/2″ on the side seam under the arm, tapering to nothing, thus removing an extra 2″. Despite my adjustments, the bodice is still very roomy. Next time I’ll make a size 4 bodice with the same SBA and dart removal. Additionally, I’ll do a petite adjustment to hike the neckline (that I already raised by 1″) and armholes up where I prefer them.

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My hip measurement put me in a size 12, while my waist measurement was at a 6, so, I cut the waistband casing as a size 6 but the skirt a size 12. I simply made a few small tucks in the skirt when attaching the casing—since the waist is gathered the tucks blend in. I added 1″ in length (usual addition for my height) and 2″ on the back skirt panel. I wanted to make a side split hem, and thought it would look better if the back were slightly longer. Also, it’s just more comfortable when I sit down to have a little extra length back there. The skirt sizing is fine, though I could probably go down a size for stiffer fabrics like linen or chambray but keep the fuller skirt for fabrics with more drape.

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Overall I’m happy with the dress. I wore it as soon as I stitched up the hem, and again a few days later. Any of the oversized bodice issues haven’t bothered me too much, but I will alter the pattern for next time. I keep wishing I had another like it, so I’m sure I’ll be making another soon!

—lisa g.