Tiny Pocket Tank in silk

I’ve made several Tiny Pocket Tanks over the years and I wear them all the time in the spring, summer, and fall—definitely a wardrobe staple for me. I’ve always sewed it up in rayon challis, so when I spotted this great designer silk crepe de chine I decided to make a slightly more luxe version. I guess I was a little gun shy about cutting into this fabric since it sat in my stash for a few months. It’s not that I haven’t worked with floaty silks before, but you know how it is—must not ruin the pretty fabric!

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shorts are my favorite thurlows

I had a good think about how I was going to finish the neckline and armholes and in the end, decided to draft an all-in-one facing for a nice clean finish. I made sure to trim about 1/16″ off the facing at the neckline and armholes to ensure that it stays neatly tucked to the inside. It’s amazing what a difference it makes when I remember to do that! Between that and tacking the facing down at the side seams, the facing feels super secure with no risk of it flipping out.

I usually do that little trick where you sew the neckline and armholes completely by machine, but sometimes I feel like pulling the top out through the straps makes for unnecessary manhandling of the fabric. For this reason, I decided to go a different route, which includes hand sewing part of the straps to the facing. Hard to explain, but it felt more appropriate for this delicate fabric. Then I french seamed the side seams, and machine stitched the hem.

Since I’ve made this pattern so many times (though not much blog documentation—sorry!), I’ve been tweaking the fit as I go. I’m pretty close to perfect, however the top still seems to pull to the back. It’s almost as if the front straps are just too long, which may be partially due to some of the alterations I’ve made to the pattern. Grainline junkie though I am, this tank has been a real mind bender to fit properly! I’ve done a SBA, raised the bust dart, raised the neckline, and opened up a wedge into the neckline to adjust the angle of the strap at the shoulder seam. I’m sure I’ll continue to tweak this pattern, but in the meantime, all my iterations are perfectly wearable.

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I’m definitely loving this top in silk. Since it doesn’t require much yardage, I don’t mind splurging on nice fabric!

—lisa g.

tiny pocket tank

given my infatuation with all things grainline studio, i thought it was time i corrected the wrong of not yet having made a tiny pocket tank (or scout tee, for that matter… will get to that soon also!). i have a handful of cotton voile sorbettos and while that is a nice little free pattern, it took a bit of hacking to get the shape and length i needed. so i decided to try the TPT. i like the swingy silhouette, and a woven tank feels like the grown up version of the knit old navy tanks i used to live in during the summers. thankfully, they don’t much make it past pj tops anymore because they’re worn to bits… i recently ordered a whole load of fabrics from fashionfabricsclub.com when they had one of their massive sales so i picked out this solid emerald green cotton voile (love this color!) and sewed it up yesterday. after all the kid sewing (and several makes i haven’t yet blogged…) i needed a quick something for myself.

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[long side note: i took a nasty fall on my morning run two weeks ago. don’t know how, but i managed to tear up the heel of my right hand, bruise and scrape up my right knee, my left shoulder, elbow and left side of my face, and my husband is pretty sure i had a mild concussion… i was able to finish the last mile and a half of my run despite the spotty vision, which i now recognize was a rather stupid thing to do. i totally didn’t realize how much damage i had done! while i’ve mostly healed up, i’ve started to wonder if i didn’t fracture my cheekbone or tear some muscle. it still hurts a little to the touch and my smile looks so weird now! my cheek is sore just from smiling for these pics. ugh! i’m sure nobody would notice but me, but there you have it. if i look funny, that’s why.]

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overall this top is a win, and definitely wearable. there are a few things i need to modify to get a better fit though. first off, the dart placement is too low. i have a high bust so that dart needs to head north at least 1/2″. also, i think i need to lessen the dart intake by about 1/2″ for a SBA. i think this would be less noticeable if the dart were positioned correctly for my body, but it’s pretty clear that my dart is only partially filled. oh yeah, and i need a good inch added to the neckline. i’ll probably have to layer this with a cami, because as is there’s too much wardrobe malfunction potential.

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the dart on this top seems different than most. it hinges the top part instead of the bottom (or some combination of the two), so the side seam above the dart ends up on the bias. sure, a bust dart is a bust dart, but if you need to alter the dart it’s important to know how the pattern works. i’ve seen a few reviews mention tightness above the bust and under the arm and i think how the dart hinges and/or the dart position, is behind all that.

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hopefully i’ll make a few more TPT’s so i can verify my pattern changes, because it’s a great pattern to have in the arsenal!

—lisa g.