minoru: the final details

after the pockets, i only had a few more details to add to my minoru. sorry to draw this out so long, but trust me. it’ll be worth it! so many people have talked about adding the various details i’ve added, so i really want to show all of them! also, i thought i had some in-progress pics of these things, but apparently i got too excited about the jacket at this point and totally forgot to take any! if you really need/want more detail on something specific, feel free to let me know.

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i added a facing to my zipper just to avoid potential clothing snags. that zip is hardcore and i’m sure it would chew up anything that came too close! if you’re looking to do the same, it’s very easy. i made the facing to go from the top of where the zipper zips up to, down to the end of the zipper tape. i made mine pretty narrow, but you could certainly make it wider if you wanted.

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i topstitched around the edge, serged the open edge, then topstitched a zig zag pattern to stabilize the facing. i didn’t want to add fusible and make it stiff, but i also didn’t want the facing to collapse upon itself since my fabric is pretty thin. to attach the facing, i lined the serged edge up with the edge of the zipper tape and stitched on top of my previous stitching where i attached the zipper to the shell (this just needs to be added before the shell and lining are attached). the only thing you need to be mindful of is keeping the top edge of the facing from getting caught in the top seam allowance.

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then that’s it! you simply proceed as normal. initially i attached the facing to the side that has the zipper pull, but i ripped it and then basted it to the other side. i found that it helps give you something to hang on to when zipping up the jacket.

the one feature that i changed from the original is the cuff. i do like the gathered cuff, but i had a straight cuff in my vision of this jacket, so that’s what i went with. initially i was going to do a placket and cuff with snaps to fasten, but everything was coming together so well that i got snap-shy and nixed all my snap plans. the thought of hammering stuff into my jacket suddenly made me nervous. anywho…

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i cut 1″ off the sleeve length, then made the cuff 1″ longer than drafted. i cut the inside and outside pieces of the cuff separate (one side interfaced) because it makes for a stronger edge, and cuff edges take a lot of wear. the sleeves are narrower than i anticipated, so it was a challenge to edge stitch and top stitch where the cuff attaches, but i was able to fold the edge of the cuff in so i could get the sewing machine in farther. snore… sorry if i’m totally boring you here.

last detail! one thing i really wanted was a drawstring waist. when i cut out my jacket pieces, i graded out at the waist on the front pieces (they had more shaping than the back) because i was pulling the drawstring out closer to the center front than the elastic, as drafted, would have gone. i left out the elastic entirely and stitched a casing to the outside of the jacket. initially i was going to put the casing on the inside and pull the drawstring out through some grommets, but i couldn’t find the right color to match my zip hardware and i was tired of finding supplies for this thing!

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i pinned, adjusted, re-pinned, adjusted again, re-pinned, and adjusted again… until i had everything laying properly and in the right place around my waist. once i was satisfied i edge stitched the casing on and threaded my cord through. oooohhhhh this is where i got totally excited, because the drawstring just pulled (haha) the whole look of the jacket together!

okay, i promise i wouldn’t keep stringing you along… the whole finished jacket will be up next! maybe today, maybe tomorrow… i have pics, just need time to write up my full review! CAN YOU TELL I’M EXCITED?!?!

and, before i forget… i’ve decided to take the plunge and sign up for me-made-may 2013. i’m going for 4 days a week of me-mades, which won’t be too challenging to achieve. i suspect the biggest challenge will be documenting! but now that the weather is warming up i’ve been pulling out some of my dresses, voile tops, shorts, etc. i’ll probably recap once a week-ish to keep it simple.

i, lisa g. of notes from a mad housewife, sign up as a participant of me-made-may ’13. i endeavour to wear me-mades at least 4 times a week for the duration of may 2013.

what about you?

—lisa g.

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minoru: the pockets

whoah. pockets. okay, so the only glaring omission for the minoru is it’s lack of outside pockets.   while i try not to constantly have my hands stashed, i always have a sniffly nose and tissues must always be at the ready. always. and if you think i’m bad (which you can’t since 99.999999% of you have never met me IRL) you should meet my adorable teeny tiny five year old daughter isabella. it’s quite comical the amount of snot she can blow out her schnoz and the decibel level she attains while doing so (allergies). so pockets are a must.

while i was pondering the main pockets, i added a vertical zip pocket to the upper left front. putting the zip in was easy peasy (i’ve done enough welt or welt-type pockets to be totally confident slicing into my fabric).

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adding the pocket bag proved a little more difficult. let’s just say i exchanged a few words with my little pocket in the process. there was a point when i knew i would have a pocket zip opening, i just didn’t know if it would be a functioning pocket. eventually i stitched in all the right places and the torturous creation is in no way evident from the outside.

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it’s amazing what tribulation a cleanly serged edge can hide. to save my pocket from pulling on the front in any way, i extended the pocket bag all the way up to the neck seam and hand sewed it in place. ideally it would have been secured in that seam when attaching the collar, but at that point of construction i hadn’t worked out all the pocket deets.

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i hemmed and hawed over exactly what size/shape/location for the main pockets and experimented with a few different sizes. i wanted a patch pocket of some variety, but when i pinned on a regular ol’ rectangular patch pocket it just didn’t look right and it was uncomfortable for hand stashing to boot. i looked around at some jackets for inspiration and found that most patch pockets for this type of jacket also had a sneaky little vertical welt pocket on top of the patch pocket—a 2-in-1 pocket (like this jacket). for all of two minutes i considered copying that design. eventually i came upon a brilliant solution to simply slant the top of the pocket. instead of making a rectangular pocket, i lowered the outer edge by (i think) 1 1/2″. as soon as i did that i knew i hit upon the right idea. from there i tweaked the proportions and placement and drafted a pocket. with the slanted design i knew would be putting the upper edge at risk of “growing” (being on the bias) so i made sure to reinforce the upper edge in a couple different ways.

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first, i made the outside and lining separate pieces, sewn together at the top (as opposed to a folded over and stitched top). i also added an interfaced pocket facing cut on the straight grain and applied to the top edge of the pocket lining. along with some under stitching and top stitching, that pocket edge will no way no how lose it’s shape. then i added a pocket flap to keep all my pocket contents secure. now, accomplishing all this with the slanted top made for some careful measuring and pattern piece making; everything had to line up perfectly. but once i had figured out the direction i wanted to go it was fairly simple to put together, and i’m very pleased with the outcome. in all seriousness, i pondered the pockets for almost two whole days and i’m glad i did, because the resulting pockets are near perfection.

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now, the astute among you will notice that my vertical zip doesn’t match my main and hood zip. when i ordered my jacket zips i hadn’t officially determined whether or not i would do this pocket, so i didn’t look very hard for a matching zip. i did look, but i couldn’t get the right hardware/tape color combo without placing a large custom order, so i skipped it. i figured, if i really wanted the pocket, i could pick up a zip that matched my shell fabric since i wasn’t looking to draw a lot of attention to this pocket. i also considered doing a welt over the zipper to hide it’s color, but nixed that idea since all the other zips were exposed.

i’m glad i went the direction i did and made the zippered pocket (though my #1 choice would have been a pink zip to match the others), but what about you? would this non-matching zipper bother you? an earlier me would certainly not have tolerated it, but do you look at these pics and think: “oh-em-gee… this would have been a perfect jacket had she just matched the darn zipper or left that eyesore out entirely!”? don’t worry, you won’t hurt my feelings because p.s. the jacket is currently finished. aaaaaannnnd is freakin’ awesome.

can’t. wait. to. show. you.

—lisa g.

minoru: under the hood

i was able to get in a nice chunk of sewing time in on monday so i have mostly completed the shell of my minoru. up until this point, i have followed the directions verbatim. to figure out the size and placement of my various pocket additions i really need to see what my jacket space actually is. it’s one thing to draw pockets out on the pattern pieces; it’s another thing entirely to see them in relation to the jacket as a whole.

i measure a size 6 in sewaholic so that’s what i’m making up. everything seems to fit great except for the shoulders. it’s more snug across my back and bicep area than i anticipated. i think i’ll let out the raglan seam at the back just a touch and hope that fixes things. it’s not so tight that i couldn’t live with it, and in reality would only be noticeable when zipped up, but i don’t want my investment of time and resources to leave me with the nagging i should have fixed that when i had the chance… especially since it won’t take that much time.

so that’s my only minor sizing irk at this point. i kept reading people’s reviews about how fast this jacket comes together but i guess i didn’t really believe it. even though it took me almost two hours to make my stupid collar/zip thingie, the rest (except for the hood, which i did sunday) was constructed in an afternoon.

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i thought i’d try to give details about my changes and additions. so i’ll start with the hood. many people have stated that they wished the hood was a 3-pc for better shaping. i wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make this little change, but i reasoned it out and it turned out perfect. here’s what i did…

determine how wide you want the middle piece to be. you can measure an existing hood in your life, or do what i did: take a measuring tape, stand in front of a mirror, and eyeball it. i went with 4″. then take your hood piece and draw in the seam allowance. now, take HALF the width you want your center hood piece to be and mark that out all along the top seam. re-add your SA, then cut away the excess.

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you will need to measure the seam line to determine how long to make the center piece. take that measurement and draw a corresponding rectangle that long and as wide as you previously measured, plus SA’s on either side (for my 4″ wide piece i added two 5/8″ SA’s making my piece 5.25″ wide). if you want to add some match points, measure around on the seam line of the hood and make incremental marks (i did them every 5″) then make corresponding marks on your center hood piece.

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a word of advice when sewing the rounded hood to the straight middle piece: remember that your seam lines are the same length at the seam line. meaning the edge of the seam allowance of the curvy piece will be longer than the edge of the straight piece. it took me a long time when i first got serious about sewing to really figure this out, so if you struggle with this sort of seam, you’re not alone! the edge of the curved piece will be rippled at the edge of the seam allowance because it is longer. i find it easiest to pin these pieces together while holding it and shaping it as i pin. generally i’m a light pin-er, but not when it comes to this type of curve.

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since i didn’t take pics while actually sewing this together, this obviously is my paper pattern.

then, when you go to sew this, have the straight piece down, and the curved piece on top. keep turning and adjusting your work so that you sew in the straight line of the rectangle piece instead of trying to sew in the curved line of the outside piece. that will probably only make sense when you’re sitting at the machine and actually sewing.

i decided to flat fell my hood seams for a nice profesh finish. i trimmed the SA of the middle piece then pressed the SA of the outer piece in half, folded it over and around the trimmed SA and stitched it down. now i do have a felling foot, but in all honesty i find it almost as easy to do by hand. plus, my SA here is wider than my foot technically accommodates for. then before hemming the outer edge of the hood, i added little buttonhole openings to allow for a drawstring, which i’ll make from self-bias tape later. if you do this, just make sure that the openings are far enough up to be above the zipper opening in the collar, an easily overlooked detail.

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like i said, i have most of the shell done except for all the pockets i’m adding. even though up to this point things have proceeded at a nice clip, i have to figure out and cut my extra pieces as i go, which slows me down considerably. i have the upper chest pocket done and i’m figuring out the main pockets. not 100% what direction i’ll be going there… i’ll be back once i have it all worked out!

—lisa g.