minoru: the pockets

whoah. pockets. okay, so the only glaring omission for the minoru is it’s lack of outside pockets.   while i try not to constantly have my hands stashed, i always have a sniffly nose and tissues must always be at the ready. always. and if you think i’m bad (which you can’t since 99.999999% of you have never met me IRL) you should meet my adorable teeny tiny five year old daughter isabella. it’s quite comical the amount of snot she can blow out her schnoz and the decibel level she attains while doing so (allergies). so pockets are a must.

while i was pondering the main pockets, i added a vertical zip pocket to the upper left front. putting the zip in was easy peasy (i’ve done enough welt or welt-type pockets to be totally confident slicing into my fabric).

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adding the pocket bag proved a little more difficult. let’s just say i exchanged a few words with my little pocket in the process. there was a point when i knew i would have a pocket zip opening, i just didn’t know if it would be a functioning pocket. eventually i stitched in all the right places and the torturous creation is in no way evident from the outside.

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it’s amazing what tribulation a cleanly serged edge can hide. to save my pocket from pulling on the front in any way, i extended the pocket bag all the way up to the neck seam and hand sewed it in place. ideally it would have been secured in that seam when attaching the collar, but at that point of construction i hadn’t worked out all the pocket deets.

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i hemmed and hawed over exactly what size/shape/location for the main pockets and experimented with a few different sizes. i wanted a patch pocket of some variety, but when i pinned on a regular ol’ rectangular patch pocket it just didn’t look right and it was uncomfortable for hand stashing to boot. i looked around at some jackets for inspiration and found that most patch pockets for this type of jacket also had a sneaky little vertical welt pocket on top of the patch pocket—a 2-in-1 pocket (like this jacket). for all of two minutes i considered copying that design. eventually i came upon a brilliant solution to simply slant the top of the pocket. instead of making a rectangular pocket, i lowered the outer edge by (i think) 1 1/2″. as soon as i did that i knew i hit upon the right idea. from there i tweaked the proportions and placement and drafted a pocket. with the slanted design i knew would be putting the upper edge at risk of “growing” (being on the bias) so i made sure to reinforce the upper edge in a couple different ways.

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first, i made the outside and lining separate pieces, sewn together at the top (as opposed to a folded over and stitched top). i also added an interfaced pocket facing cut on the straight grain and applied to the top edge of the pocket lining. along with some under stitching and top stitching, that pocket edge will no way no how lose it’s shape. then i added a pocket flap to keep all my pocket contents secure. now, accomplishing all this with the slanted top made for some careful measuring and pattern piece making; everything had to line up perfectly. but once i had figured out the direction i wanted to go it was fairly simple to put together, and i’m very pleased with the outcome. in all seriousness, i pondered the pockets for almost two whole days and i’m glad i did, because the resulting pockets are near perfection.

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now, the astute among you will notice that my vertical zip doesn’t match my main and hood zip. when i ordered my jacket zips i hadn’t officially determined whether or not i would do this pocket, so i didn’t look very hard for a matching zip. i did look, but i couldn’t get the right hardware/tape color combo without placing a large custom order, so i skipped it. i figured, if i really wanted the pocket, i could pick up a zip that matched my shell fabric since i wasn’t looking to draw a lot of attention to this pocket. i also considered doing a welt over the zipper to hide it’s color, but nixed that idea since all the other zips were exposed.

i’m glad i went the direction i did and made the zippered pocket (though my #1 choice would have been a pink zip to match the others), but what about you? would this non-matching zipper bother you? an earlier me would certainly not have tolerated it, but do you look at these pics and think: “oh-em-gee… this would have been a perfect jacket had she just matched the darn zipper or left that eyesore out entirely!”? don’t worry, you won’t hurt my feelings because p.s. the jacket is currently finished. aaaaaannnnd is freakin’ awesome.

can’t. wait. to. show. you.

—lisa g.

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10 thoughts on “minoru: the pockets

  1. Shar says:

    Last week one of my co- workers was discussing how being too matchy-matchy is definitely off trend – so see you’re right with the times! I know what you’re saying about the vertical zip, but I like the subtlety of it blending into the lines of the coat.You’re right – those patch pockets are awesome and perfectly done. I can’t wait to see the finished jacket!

    • lisa g says:

      thanks! i used to be the girl who obsessively matched… nail polish to hair ties and outfits… these days not so much. it’s nice to let a little of that go!

  2. dokucug says:

    I cannot WAIT to see this jacket!!! You sneaky girl! Man, I learned so much just from this one post alone! And I’m starting to think that next fall I will likely be making one of these of my very own.

    Love your slant pockets, and I think you made the right decision with the beige (grey? can’t really tell on the monitor) vertical zip – I mean, it’s right in the middle of your chest. You don’t really want to draw too much attention there!

    Can we see it tomorrow? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease?

    p.s. I’m also a member of the runny nose club.

    • lisa g says:

      make one! i can totally see this on you. the zip is kinda beige, it’s hard to tell in pics but the fabric has brown undertones. it’s funny… had i bought a jacket with a similar mis-match for hardware i probably wouldn’t have even noticed! that’s the main reason i decided to just let it go. glad ppl seem to agree with my decision!

  3. crab&bee says:

    Your jacket looks incredible. I really like those slanted pockets! I did rectangular patch pockets, and I think they look a little strange; maybe too wide for an area that narrows towards the waist? The vertical zip color is nice and subtle! It matches the jacket, which I think makes it look intentional. Excited to see the finished jacket!

    • lisa g says:

      yes! that’s exactly it! i needed the pockets to be wider but they were running into the side seam. i even took much of the waist shaping out of the front (added a drawstring instead of elastic) but it still wasn’t enough room. the slanted pockets solved the problem perfectly!

  4. Susan says:

    I think I like it even *better* not being the same as the others… it’s a different detail. I definitely would have never thought, hey that doesn’t match! Your pockets all look awesome and I can’t wait to see the final!!

  5. Winny says:

    I think the pocket zip colour tones in quite well with the jacket fabric. It might have been too distracting if it was pink. I like the streamlined way the centre front pink zip looks. It lo I love your jacket – I don’t sew as much now as I used to, but might just try this one !

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