this week

i usually have no shortage of things to say, but this week is different. i keep starting, stopping, deleting, rewriting…

if you don’t know, i live about 30 miles west of boston. our family has spent many afternoons wandering around that great city appreciating the history and the sights. we’ve only lived here for three and a half years, but we’ve settled here and we feel like this is exactly where we want to raise our family.

this is from a year ago, almost to the day

this is from a year ago, almost to the day, in boston, ma

we see these tragedies with all too much frequency and yes, it leaves a sense of helplessness and fear. while i can’t do anything on a grand scale, i can be kind to those around me. i can listen when someone has had a bad day. i can give the slow driver in front of me when i’m late taking my son to preschool the benefit of the doubt. i can think twice before yelling at my kids when i’m stressed. i can put my own frustrations into perspective and not let them ruin the good day someone else is having. i can set aside hatred and know that this… this world… is temporary.

—lisa g.

just a quick note!

first off, thanks a million to everyone who voted for my project over on pattern review. i didn’t get first place, but i did come in second! and second place still gets a prize. woooo!

Sewing For Children

also, i am rearranging the page links on my header and adding some content. mostly i’m categorizing my FO pics by year with links to the blog posts. i also added a pattern page where i have the one piece button placket i drafted for my husband’s button down shirt. i don’t have instructions up yet, but i’ll get there (i have fabric for two business shirts that i’ll start shortly so i’ll make a full on step by step with pictures). in the meantime, there are other tutorials out on the interwebs and in sewing books. i know my whole layout isn’t super-slick, but it’ll have to do!

thanks again for the votes!

—lisa g.

project winter coat: finished it!

holy smokes! i made a coat! a real coat that looks… real!


way back when i started planning out this coat, the style, fabric choices, etc… my oldest daughter (8 yrs old) was nosing over my shoulder and said: “what, are you making a sherlock holmes coat?” huh? no. well… oh… hmmm. see, i kind of became obsessed with all the sherlock holmes novels and stories this year along with the fabulous bbc tv show “sherlock” (seriously the best show ever. ever.). in the show, his classic trench coat is almost a character in and of itself, and i noticed that it has red buttonholes. which got me to thinking that i, therefore, needed pink buttonholes on my coat.

so i finished this little beauty off with some fancy hand worked buttonholes. i won’t go into detail about them as i am by no means an expert. i don’t have a keyhole button feature on my machine so i had to go with either bound or handworked. and since i wanted bright pink thread… handworked it had to be.

oh how naive i was. not only was it a challenge just to locate the right supplies, my research indicated that handworked buttonholes are a tailoring specialty. and having  done a few, i can see why.

so i practiced and practiced and practiced my stitches. the thing is, using a contrasting thread color, every imperfection is highly visible. so as much as i just wanted to jump right in, i kept practicing until i had something passable. i have to say, i’ve kind of fallen in love with making them. so much so, that i didn’t stop at the three buttonholes the pattern calls for, but added a lapel buttonhole and functioning buttonholes on the back tie.

while they are faaaaar from perfect, i love them. and i plan to order that giant spool of gimp so i can keep practicing, because there will be more of these in my future.

the only other detail i haven’t shown here is my interior pocket. i had planned to show you how i made it and such, but i so badly botched the construction that i’m just happy it both functions and isn’t terribly unsightly. seriously, i’ve made so many welt pockets over the years, why i screwed this one up so badly i will never know.

but, there you have it. you’ve seen every inch of this coat, inside and out, and i hope my extensive posting has been helpful. now i am soooo ready to make something quick and easy!

oh yeah, and i love it!!!

—lisa g.

project winter coat: bagging the lining

it’s time to talk lining. there are about as many ways to finish a coat lining as there are people lining coats. and, until you’ve done one yourself, it’s just hard to visualize what the heck they’re all talking about! what i’m showing here is a super easy, no-hand-stitching-required way.

but before i get to that… a long time ago i mentioned that i planned to interline my coat for warmth. i hemmed and hawed over how best to add that extra layer. initially, i had planned on constructing a flannel layer of the back and side front pieces then catch stitch it to the coat at the neckline and down the princess seam of the front. i was undecided on whether or not to do the sleeves, so i kept mulling it all over and did some online research. there isn’t a whole heck of a lot of info on this topic, but most everything i found suggested underlining the lining fabric and finishing construction like that. initially i didn’t like this idea, but ended up coming back to it and that is what i did.

everything was fine and dandy until i needed to do the bagging, and turning the coat and all the little interior finishings. since the inside of the lining was flannel instead of slippery, this all became quite difficult and i ended up doing a lot of hand stitching that otherwise would have been done by machine. if i were to do it all over again, i would definitely choose a different method. that said, my hand stitching was still minimal.

at any rate, while discussing this with my sister, monica, who is sewing up a different version of the same pattern, i suggested she try catch stitching flannel to the inside of the shell, so i’m sharing pics of her interlining.

here’s a sneaky peek at her coat… so cute!

okay. so, assuming that you are going the “no hand stitching” route, when you construct your lining, leave an opening in one of the sleeves. you will need to allow 8″-10″, because you will ended up pulling the hem of the coat out through this opening. i’ll get to that in a bit. if you haven’t attached the lining to the facing, now is the time.

your sleeve lining should be about 1″ shorter than the shell (and the same at the coat hem). with your shell and lining together, make sure the seam(s) in your sleeves are lined up, turn them in toward each other then reach up through the hem of the coat in between shell and lining, and with your other hand grab that little part you had pinched and pull the sleeves out.

both the shell and lining of the sleeve will be inside out. if you haven’t done this before, it will feel weird, but it works. just trust me. so pin all around the sleeve openings and stitch them together.

then stick your hand in the sleeve from the shell side and pull the sleeve out and adjust the hem so it is even and laying properly. repeat with the other sleeve. if you need to, take a few stitches and tack the turned sleeve hem at the seam allowance(s).

now turn the coat and lining inside out, and stitch the bottom edge of the facing. when you get to the point where the facing meets the lining, pull the lining down and stitch diagonally, then continue stitching the bottom edge of the coat.

repeat with the other side leaving 8″-10″ open. check out sherry’s post on this step HERE, she illustrates it better than i do. turn the coat right side out through the hem opening. now, to close the hem by machine, reach down through that opening in the sleeve, grab the hem and carefully pull it out through the sleeve just enough to finish stitching the hem. 

if you think you have too much bulk to do this, just slip stitch the gap in the lining at the hem. give the hem a good hard press making sure the hem is even and everything is laying as it should. but do take care not to let the iron rest over the plastic head of a pin…

guess who’ll be buying some glass head pins? that’d be me. lucky this didn’t melt on to my coat. eeps!

sherry has great tips about sewing the seam allowance on the inside of the coat to keep the hem laying properly (same link as before). if you can’t do it as she instructs, just tack the hem at the seam allowances to make sure the hem stays crisp and in place. then remember that opening in the sleeve lining? just pull it out, pinch it together and edge stitch it. since it’s tucked inside the sleeve, it will never be seen! so clever!

after all that, i finished off my coat with some top stitching, removed the basting stitches, and finally made my handworked buttonholes. actually, i just finished sewing on the last button this morning. so excited to show it off!

—lisa g.

project winter coat: the collar and facing

now we’re ready to sew on the under collar to the shell. this can be a little tricky, and honestly i don’t have too many words of wisdom here other than TAKE YOUR TIME. this isn’t one of those “i just want to finish one more step before i stop” bits. if you rush through it, you will most likely be disappointed.

this the the under collar piece with  an extra layer of fusible to
serve as a collar stand. this supports the collar and helps it fall properly.

now, some jackets have a neck seam that is curved all the way around and some are squared off and have a pivot point. either is tricky, but i tend to prefer the type with a pivot point because you can stop and evaluate your work before getting the whole thing in. for the type that curves, just remember that you are lining up the seam line not the edge of the pattern pieces. how ever your pattern is drafted, you will need to stay stitch the neck at the seam line and clip in a few places to make all of this easier. if in doubt, hand baste first to check your work! i don’t really have pics of all this because you wouldn’t really be able to tell what i was doing anyhow, but here is sherry’s post with really nice pictures! when you have the collar on, press the seam allowance open. if it doesn’t lay perfectly flat, clip where necessary.

now that your shell is complete, you can assemble your facings and/or lining. if your pattern has a back neck facing, sew your facing pieces together at the shoulder seams and attach the upper collar. if there is no back neck facing piece, you will need to assemble your whole lining, front facing pieces and then attach the upper collar. if your pattern doesn’t have a back neck facing and you want one, see how to draft one here.

now, i’m not doing much hand sewing for this coat, but i found it really helpful to catch stitch the seam allowance on the collar side up. doing so is optional, but it keeps this seam out of the way nicely.

okay, now things start to get serious. pin the collar pieces together around the outer edge. your pattern should have some turn of cloth allowance so the upper collar will be slightly larger, and need to be eased onto, the under collar piece. the easiest thing to do is let your sewing machine feed dogs do the work by sewing with the piece that needs easing on the bottom. where you begin and end sewing around the collar, make sure you turn up the seam allowance. most likely your pattern is marked with a dot here, this is the notch in the collar. by the way, if you have a shawl collar, obviously this won’t apply and your collar and lapel will be all once piece.

once the collar is sewn, next you sew the lapel. beginning at the notch (again, your pattern should be marked with a dot here) and making sure not to catch the collar pieces, begin sewing and sew all the way down the front edge. repeat on the other side. there should also be some easing of the facing onto the shell, just let the machine do this work for you.

now you’ll need to trim, clip and grade all the way around the collar and facing. i ended up trimming down the corners to about 1/8″, but leaving the straight bits as you see below.

once the collar and lapel is sewn, pressed and under stitched where necessary, reach up and grab the seam allowance under the collar around the neck edge and stitch them together as close to the seam line as possible making sure all your points are matched. this will anchor the collar in place and keep the shell and facings from shifting.

i first line up and pin on the seam…

…then flip up the facing, grab the SA and stitch

lastly, i basted the entire collar, lapel and front edge so i could give it a good hard press. if you do this, make sure you roll the seam allowances under around the collar and lapel, then toward the inside from the break point down.

things are looking good now! so close to finishing…

—lisa g.

project winter coat: custom shoulder pads

i’m not much of a shoulder pad person, but i do know that a tailored coat needs some oomph to maintain the structured shoulder you’ve worked so hard to achieve. i never could remember to hunt down  shoulder pads when i was at the fabric store or shopping online, so i decided to make my own. i loosely followed instructions i found in singer’s “the complete photo guide to sewing” (good book, by the way. i found a copy at the library and it seems really useful!). they call for batting, but i just used more of the polar fleece i have lying around. if you use fleece, it won’t be quite as structured as the stiffer batting, so just keep that in mind when you select materials.

to start, take your front and back pattern pieces and line them up at the shoulder’s seam allowance. tape it together then place tracing paper on top. trace the armhole between the ease points and mark the shoulder seam. make sure to label which side is the front and which side is the back, as they are not symmetrical. then just draw a curved line up to about 1″ from the neck seam.

determine how many layers of fleece/batting you need. for me, three layers gave me 3/8″ which is a hair thicker than the 1/4″ called for in the pattern. since fleece is more squishable than batting, it will work out perfectly.

cut each layer to be about 3/4″ smaller than the one before it. make sure your shoulder seam is marked on each piece so you can line them up easily. now, curving them in your hand, make a running stitch along the straight edge to keep it all together. don’t bother with knotting your threads, just take a back stitch at either end.

once you have done this, make radial stitches throughout the shoulder pad starting from the center and shaping it as you go. once you’re done, your pad should hold a curve on it’s own.

now cut two pieces of muslin and pin it together around the shoulder pad and trim the excess from the bottom layer so it is even. then serge or zig-zag around the rounded edge (careful to maintain the curved shape) to close it up.

on the straight edge, just whip stitch the muslin to the next layer of fleece/batting to keep it all together without squishing it down.

and there you have it… custom shoulder pads!

—lisa g.